The Art of Kundan Meena

Kundan Meena is not simply jewelry. It is the culmination of two ancient arts — Kundan setting, where pure 24-karat gold foil is pressed around gemstones without the use of heat, and Meena, the intricate enamel work fired into the gold on the reverse side. Together, they create pieces that are as extraordinary from behind as they are from the front.

In our haveli in the historic lanes of Gopalji Ka Rasta, this tradition has been alive for nearly a century. The karigars — master craftsmen — who work with us have inherited their skills through unbroken lineages of their own. Ghaaria masters work the gold framework, while Jadiya craftsmen set the stones one by one by hand, pressing the precious metal foil around each gem with a tool no larger than a matchstick.

The gemstones used in Kundan Meena are typically table-cut — flat on top to allow light to disperse evenly — and are chosen for their color saturation rather than clarity alone. We source our stones directly from Colombia for emeralds, Sri Lanka for sapphires, and Burma for rubies, ensuring that every piece in a set matches in hue and brilliance.

The Meena work on the reverse requires an entirely different set of hands. The enamel artist, or Meenakar, lays powdered glass onto the gold, colors it with mineral oxides, and fires it in a kiln at precisely controlled temperatures. A single misstep in heat can crack a piece that took weeks to build. This is why the most accomplished Meemakers are the most quietly respected figures in any atelier.

At Neelam Jewels, we refuse to rush this process. A full Kundan Meena bridal set — comprising necklace, maang tikka, earrings, bangles, and haath phool — can take between four and eight months to complete. We consider that not a limitation, but a statement about what we value.